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Pereira, capital of the Coffee

Le 25 décembre, après 8 heures et la traversée bus of the Cordillera Central par la route la plus haute Colombia (3265 meters), we finally arrived in Pereira, capital of Risaralda region and area of coffee "Eje Cafetero. The city has about 600,000 inhabitants, making it a small town in the country!

Located at the geographic center of Colombia, however, that it attracts very few tourists and is more trade-oriented. The town itself is little about this interesting tourist because she suffered from numerous earthquakes that have caused the loss of the original architecture. Thus, the main attraction is a gigantic statue of Simon Bolivar more than 8 meters high, nothing original so far, except that it is naked on his horse! Funny way to make a national reputation ...

However, the surroundings are spectacular and offer many opportunities for hikes and walks. People here are incredibly friendly and we met a family through CouchSurfing, and Gutierrez, very warm and welcoming. We were immediately taken under their wing with the desire to show us what the surroundings have to offer, and thus we have discovered their finca 10 minutes Pereira, overlooking the Gran Cañon and offers a privileged view the Cauca Valley.

We then meet with Nelson Espitia, local paraglider makes us discover his site, on the Cerro del Nudo, little frequented by Colombians flying but has yet great potential. We climb off with all the drivers in the city, meaning he and his son, a track built by themselves.

The sun heats up the slopes, and begin to unleash powerful heat. Mathieu pulls out of the game and rises to the ceiling at 2500 meters, 500 meters above the decoration, and thus benefits from a splendid view over the city and surrounding areas. The LZ is technique un peu, avec une finale qui fait dans is attached trouée bambous Bosquet d'un, mais vraiment you will VAuto vol coup, surtout quand Les conditions sont aussi bonnes!

Vol à Pereira, notre premier montage vidéo réalisé avec notre péniblement vieil s'éteint ordi qui dès qu'il surchauffe, c'est à dire souvent!

December 25, after 8 hours of bus and having crossed the Cordillera Central of the highest road in Colombia (3265 meters), we finally got to Pereira, capital of Risaralda region and " Coffee. " The city has about 600 000 inhabitants what defines a small town in the country!
Located in the geographic center of Colombia, attracts only a few tourists and is more dedicated to trade. The city itself has few interesting tourist areas because it suffered from numerous earthquakes that caused the loss of the original architecture. Thus, the main attraction is a giant statue of Simon Bolivar more than 8 feet high, nothing original there, except that it is naked on his horse! It is a fun way to get a national reputation ...
However, the surroundings are spectacular and offer numerous opportunities for hiking. The people here is incredible kindness and met a family through CouchSurfing, the Gutierrez, very affectionate and friendly. Then took care of us with the desire to show what are the most beautiful surroundings, and that's how we discovered his farm 10 minutes from Pereira, overlooking the Grand Canyon and offers a privileged view over the Valle de Cauca.
then met Nelson Espitia, local paraglider made us discover your Voladero, in the Cerro del Nudo, little visited by Colombian flyers but nevertheless has great potential. We got on with all the drivers off the city, saying he and his son, a track entitled by themselves.
The sun warms the slopes, and appear powerful heat. Mathieu rises to the ceiling of 2500 meters, that is at 500m above the takeoff, and thus enjoys a splendid view over the city and surrounding areas. The landing is a bit technical, with an approach that is going on a wicket of a grove of giant bamboos, but the flight really is worth it, especially when the conditions are very good!

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Depuis les toits de Bogotá, nous vous souhaitons an excellent Noël à tous!

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Sopo, first flight in "paradise"

Awakened by the sun in our hammocks Gachancipá, the weather is superb. The desire to fly up, especially as we stand on the same ridgeline as the takeoff of Sopo, about ten miles as the crow flies. After a good meal cooked over a wood fire, we return home Pedro walk to catch a bus to Sopo.
We're back to even off a month ago, but this time equipped with emergency parachutes Xtralite we sent Sup'Air. We observe local pilots take off because the conditions at the deco are still not very stable, then we prepare our turn. Aurelie while taking his time and witnessing a beautiful branches, Mathieu took off and quickly became catapult a few hundred meters above the decoration, which is already more than 3000 meters above sea level, with a powerful dynamic.
The conditions are mild and can enjoy the scenery, until Sesquile Taj Mahal amusement park Jaime Duque de Briceno.


We end the flight together, but it is too low for landing on the same ground as other drivers. It arises on the closest attéros official, we can not donc pas du transport collectif pour profiteer remonter. C'est donc

quasiment 10 kilomètres de marche avant attendent qui nous sur une route retomber important, d'où l'on a bus attrapera ramènera qui nous à Bogota.

Contents!

We awoke with the sun in the hammocks in Gachancipá, the climate is delightful. The growing desire to fly, even more so because we stand on the same ridge line Sopó takeoff, about 10 miles as the crow flies. After a good cooked meal the fire got out of Peter's house on foot to catch a bus to Sopo.
We're back in the same take-off a month ago, but this time equipped with a reserve parachute that you submitted Xtralite Sup 'Air. Observe local pilots take off because the conditions at launch are not yet very stable, then we get ready. While Aurélie take your time, Mathieu takes off and becomes quickly catapult a few hundred feet above the takeoff, which is already more than 3000 meters, thanks to the powerful dynamic.
The conditions are mild and can enjoy the landscape, to the Taj Mahal Sesquile amusement park Jaime Duque de Briceño.
We finished the flight together, but we are too low to go to land on the same ground as the other pilots. Then landed at the nearest official aterizaderos, but then we could not enjoy public transport to rise again.
Almost 10 miles of walking ahead then before reaching a major highway, where we will take a bus ride back to Bogota.

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Gachancipá, aux premières loges pour l'éclipse

éloignons Nous nous de la ville et de la pluie pour rejoindre dans sa Pedro "nuhe" sur les hauteurs of Gachancipá, 50 minutes from Bogotá. Nous dans affalé trouvons you hamac, next to the fire, under the Kogi hut built by her father.

The Kogi Indians are living for over 500 years in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in northern Colombia on the Caribbean portion of territory that ranges from 0 to 5770 meters. They are descendants of the Tayrona, the English conquest was driven into the mountains. They are considered a final pre-Columbian people, direct descendants of the Maya, one of the most unspoilt peoples of Western influence and the great waves of immigration and seeks to preserve traditional values and practices of shamanism.

photo: Pedro Figueroa

There were approximately 12,000 Kogi in Colombia, with guerrillas and trying to survive despite all the respect for the land and their culture. They still feel today "Keepers of the Earth" that they considered and treated as "sacred." (source: Wikipedia)

photo: Pedro Figueroa

After a night walk in the mountains, we return to the hut to watch the total lunar eclipse. It is in this magical setting, saved from air pollution and light Bogotá, we see the moon darken and become completely brown.

photo: Lucia Ibañez

Totally mesmerized by the spectacle, we do not see the time passing and only late at night (early the morning?) that we lie in our hammocks.

We left the city and rain to meet with Peter in his "nuhe" on the heights of Gachancipá, 50 minutes from Bogotá. We found rolled in a hammock by the fire, under the Kogi shack built by his father.
The Kogi are natives who have lived for over 500 years in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, northern Colombia Caribbean on a piece of land that goes from 0 to 5 770 meters. They are descendants of the Tayrona, which rejected the English conquest in the mountains. They are considered one of the last pre-Columbian people, direct descendants of the Maya, one of the best preserved villages of Western influence and large waves of immigration and who is attached to preserve their traditional values and shamanic practices.
Today there are approximately 12 000 Kogi in Colombia, suffering from the guerrillas and trying to survive despite all the respect for the land and culture. Still feel "guardians of the Earth" who consider and treat as "sacred." (Source: Wikipedia)
After a night on the mountain, back to the hut to attend the total eclipse of the moon. It is then in this magical environment, protected from light and air pollution in Bogota, we see the moon darken and then turn completely red.
Totally mesmerized by the spectacle, No vemos pasar el tiempo y es sólo en la noche slow (in the temprano mañana ¿?) that our nuestras acostamos in hammocks.

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lunaire San Gil, "the tourist capital of Santander et ses environs

After a few hours by bus from Villa de Leyva, Tunja through, before climbing to 3200 meters, then descending to the Caribbean, skirting the multiple landslides, we finally arrived in San Gil in the region of Santander.

We understand why the bus driver turned the air conditioning back for a while, outside the heat is overwhelming! In the tropics, the altitude difference clearly affects the climate, vegetation and even people. Built on a mountainside, the town spreads on both sides of a valley. Cobbled streets and steep, its shady garden at the foot of a colonial church give it a charm unique to the region. Although very touristy, the town is very welcoming and the atmosphere is pretty good. Every evening, people gather on the central square, in the alleys of the park to talk, eat or drink.

Seduced by the corner, we take several days for the hospitality of our first host couchsurfer , Andres to explore the area. Especially since he lives in a charming little house a few miles above San Gil, lost in the vegetation, surrounded by fruit trees (mandarin, mango ...): the dream!

Thanks to the bus rather well organized and cheap, everyday we discover other villages and nature areas, each more charming than each other. Just above "our" house, 3 km, the village of Pinchot, like all others, it is organized around its central square with its shady park and church, we must say that's about all but it dominates the valley and offers a privileged view of the surroundings.

A little further north, about 40 minutes drive Barichara is situated on a plateau overlooking a canyon. This is one of the prettiest villages in the region, if not the country, and by necessity a place quite touristy. The contrasts between the red earth, white walls of houses and the green of the surrounding vegetation are striking! The icing on the cake, it seems that it flies around. The information is difficult to obtain, we learn from a police officer who teaches us to our surprise that it is forbidden to fly by here ... information to be contradicted later by a local paraglider.

Other Mecca of paragliding in the area, Curiti, a small village less touristy but just as welcoming as Barichara. The atmosphere is calm and relaxed, and its people are among the warmest we've met before! The main activity of the town is not the "adventure travel", as is the case almost everywhere in the region, but the craft tific , vegetable fiber end of the agave (a kind giant cactus leaves) with which one can do almost everything: hats, shoes, bags, jewelry, decorative items and even furniture! The region also saw a lot of tobacco production and especially coffee, which you can see the seeds dry in the sun on the sidewalk in front of houses. After making the acquaintance of a paraglider curiteño , we are en route to the site of official flight, about 30 minutes from the village tract ... but the storm will be faster than us and the huge cumulonimbus clouds that overtakes us we quickly cut any desire to get in the air!

last attempt to steal, we contact a club from San Gil to enjoy their commute, and loans relief. But the misfortune pursues us, because we are too late for our appointment on Sunday morning due to overcrowded buses Colombians going to mass. Raz and tired, we still enjoy the rest of the day to discover the Juan Curi Waterfalls, sails on the back. Not very convenient for exploring the site, especially as access is equipped with ropes and ladders to cross fortunes of the various waterfalls, whose primary is 180 meters. So in turn that we explore the waterfalls, the place is magical especially as we find them alone.

Then we leave San Gil pour revenir à Bogotá, de secours récupérer les parachutes that nous fait parvenir Sup'Air.

After a few hours by bus from Villa de Leyva, Tunja through before climbing to 3200 meters above sea level and back down to the Caribbean, avoiding multiple landslides, we finally arrived to San Gil, Santander region.
understood then why the driver of the bus had air conditioning at all for a good while, outside the heat is tremendous! In the tropics, the altitude difference enough influence on climate, vegetation and even people. Built in the mountains, the city lies on both sides of the valley. Floored and steep streets, its shaded park at the foot of a colonial church give the charm typical of the region. Although very touristy, the town is still very friendly and the atmosphere is pretty good. By late afternoon, people were grouped in the central plaza in the corridors of the park to discuss, eat and drink.
Seduced by region, for several days we enjoyed the hospitality of our first guest CouchSurfer, Andres, to discover. Besides, he lives in a very charming small house a few miles from San Gil, loss of vegetation in the middle of fruit trees (mandarin, mango ...): Is a dream!
Thanks to well-organized buses and flights, every day we discover other people and natural sites, all more charming than others. Just above "our" house, about 3 kilometers, is the town of Pinchote. Like everyone else, is organized around the central square with its shady park, your church, I must say that is pretty much all but dominates the valley and offers excellent views over the surrounding area.
A little further north, about 40 minutes walk, Barichara is located at the edge of a plateau overlooking a canyon. One of the most beautiful villages in the region, if not the country, which obviously does a pretty touristy. The contrast between the red earth, the white walls of the houses and the green of nearby vegetation are amazing! Above all, it seems that you can fly around. The information is so difficult to obtain than a police informed us that we learn, surprisingly, it is forbidden to fly over here. This information will be denied later by a local paraglider ...
Another place for paragliding in the region, Curití, less touristy village but at least as welcoming as Barichara. The atmosphere there is quiet and calm, and its inhabitants are among the most caring that we have found until then! The main activity of the municipality is not "tourism of happiness", as is the case almost anywhere else in the region, but the craftsmanship of sisal, a fiber taken from the agave plant (a type of cactus with giant leaves) with which You can do almost everything: hats, shoes, bags, jewelry, decorative items and even furniture! The region is home also to the production of snuff and especially coffee, you can see the seeds dry in the sun on the sidewalk in front of houses. Having seen a paraglider curiteño, we are coming to the site of official flight, about 30 minutes of track of the people .... But the storm will be faster than us and huge cumulonimbus cloud reaches us quickly takes away all desire to fly!
Last attempt to fly, we made contact with a club in San Gil to take advantage of transport, loans and reserve parachutes. But misfortune pursues us, because we arrived too late for our appointment for Sunday morning because of the busloads of Colombians go to mass. Disappointed, however we take advantage of the rest of the day to discover the Juan Curi Waterfalls, carrying our gliders. Is not the most convenient to discover the site, because the roads are equipped with ropes and ladders to allow the crossing of different waterfalls, the main 180-meters. So is turnos our toca explorar los saltos a dirty de agua, el lugar es mágico sobre todo our encontramos alli solo.
luego San Gil has dejamos para volver a Bogotá para recuperar los de reserva paracaídas Sup'Air that our desires.

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